Wired up, but not moving yet!

I finally have the truck completely wired up but I have a controller problem.

The light on the Curtis 1238 controller blinks a yellow light, which I think is good. But after pressing the accelerator the red light blinks and I read a code 47.

The 1238 manual has code 47 as an HPD sequencing fault and lists the following possible causes:

1. KSI, interlock, direction, and throttle inputs applied in incorrect sequence.

2. Faulty wiring, crimps, or switches at KSI (Key Switch Input), interlock, direction, or throttle inputs.


Also the Set/Clear conditions are:

Set: HPD (High Pedal Disable) or sequencing fault caused by incorrect sequence of KSI, interlock, direction, and throttle inputs. 

Clear: Reapply inputs in correct sequence

Is this the way I have something hooked up, or is this a programming problem that will require having the controller reprogrammed?

I posted this in http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=187057

I need to figure this one out so I can see the motor spin.

Mounting the Curtis Controller

The Curtis controller provides the AC for my motor and that is the next step in my build. To mount the motor I decided to use some 3/16 flat aluminum stock that would sandwich in between the controller and a nice finned heat sink.

I also needed to weld some aluminum angle onto the flat stock to give it rigidity and a mount point to mount the whole assembly on the motor mount. 

This is what the heat sink / mount looks like as I welded it. You can see the welds are done in 1" sections and then the stock is allowed to cool to prevent warping. I also clamped the heat sink onto the assembly while I welded in order to minimize warping.

Welding the angle aluminum to the flat stock

After welding the tray, I clamped it onto the motor mount that I had fabricated for the motor. Then I cut out a template from cardboard to get the right angles for the angle aluminum for the braces.

Cutting a template to fit for the braces.

I then cut the aluminum braces with a skilsaw fitted with a metal cutting blade.

At this point I have the tray clamped to the motor mount and ready to accept the metal braces. I still need to weld flat ends onto the braces in order to bolt them to the tray and the motor mount.

Electric Motor

I found an electric motor on ebay that should work for my truck. I was told that it is an AC-46 motor.

AC-46 with shaft keyway and C face drilling and rear cover

Aluminum Heat sink for cooling controller

Curtis 1238-6501 Controller with programming for motor

The total was $2800. This was from Allan Bullock out of Livermore, CA



This is a picture of the motor mated to a transmission from a Ford Ranger.

Here is the motor all mounted in the truck.

Back to Square One

Well, I didn't like that heavy motor and CNG equipment in my truck. So I pulled it out and sold it. My new plan is to put in an Electric Motor and do a conversion.

So here is the truck sans motor again.